Category: Seasonal Advice

As the temperature drops and the days get shorter, it’s time to start thinking about preparing your lawn for the winter months ahead. In this blog, we will take you through a step-by-step winter lawn care checklist.

Should I Fertilise My Lawn?

A fertiliser application will help give your lawn a final boost before the cooler temperatures set in. This will help your lawn recover from any stresses caused over the warmer month and can help extend your lawns colouring heading into winter.

If the temperatures are still warm in your location, you can still use a granular fertiliser like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. However, if the temperatures have already started to cool, you are best off using a liquid fertiliser like Exceed, as it will be absorbed quickly by the leaf of the grass.

 

How Regularly Should I Be Mowing My Grass?

As temperatures start to decline, your lawn will slowdown in growth. Although growth will slow, it is best to ensure you don’t stop mowing and follow the one-third rule.

What is the one-third rule? This is how much of the leaf you should remove when mowing. If more than one-third of the leaf is removed, it can cause stress to the lawn, and scalping can occur. So, by removing no more than one-third, the grass will stay healthy and won’t become stressed.

What Can I Use to Stop Lawn Weeds?

If weeds are growing in your lawn, it is best to get on top of them before the cooler temperatures set in. The type of weed will change what products you should use to remove them, so it is best to know what kind of weed you have before looking at products.

For common broadleaf weeds like Clover, Bindii, Oxalis, Cudweed and Catsear, we recommend using a broadleaf herbicide like All Purpose Weed Control or Amgrow Bin Die. The All Purpose Weed Control comes in an easy-to-use hose-on bottle that sprays out the product. The Amgrow Bin Die comes in a concentrate that needs to be mixed with water and applied through a knapsack or sprayer.

If you are unsure what weed you have growing in your lawn, check out our blog here.

What Is a Pre-Emergent Herbicide?

Pre-emergent herbicides target weed seeds before the weed grows and is visible in your lawn. They create a barrier at the soil level, affecting the germination of any new seedlings. This type of herbicides is great to use, particularly if your lawn faces seasonal weeds like Winter Grass.

When applying pre-emergents like Oxafert it is best to time your application as the temperatures start to cool in your area. For most regions, this will be in mid to late Autumn.

Should I Use Iron on My Lawn?

Heading into winter, you can look at using an iron-based product to help extend and improve your lawns colour both heading into and throughout the cooler months. Iron products can also be used to help strengthen your grass.

If you want to use an iron-based product heading into winter, we recommend using Iron Guard Plus.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Are you looking for a way to help extend your lawns colouring throughout the cooler months? Well, iron might be your answer! The main benefit of using iron is to help improve your lawns colouring, especially when lawns are entering dormancy. In this blog, we look at all you need to know about using iron on your lawn.

Will Iron Make My Lawn Greener in Winter?

The short and straightforward answer is yes, but there is more to it. Iron, also known as Fe, helps grass photosynthesise and create chlorophyll. As a result, it will improve colour and allows it to carry out cellular functions.

Are There Any Other Benefits of Using Iron?

There are a few other benefits to using iron. These include helping control moss, strengthening your lawn, can help limit the impact of frost and helping make your lawn more disease resistant.

When Should I Use Iron?

Iron is best used on a healthy and strong lawn. It is best used to help improve your lawns colour, especially when heading into or out of dormancy.

When it comes to using iron products, we recommend using our Lawn Solutions Iron Guard Plus.

Golden Rules to Follow When Applying Iron

When applying iron, it is best to avoid it in the heat of the day. If it has been used when temperatures are at their warmest, some burning can occur. We also recommend applying Iron Guard monthly when active growth is present or when nutrient deficiency symptoms are visible to maintain even growth and colour for your lawn. We also recommend making sure your plant is healthy and not stressed before application. When applying all lawn care products, it is always best to ensure you use as per the label application instructions and application rates.

Precautions to Take When Applying Iron

Avoid applying iron to footpaths, driveways, and other surfaces. When iron is applied to hard surfaces, it can cause rust-coloured stains. If you use a liquid product and some spray has been applied or drifted to another surface, it is best to wash it off immediately. When applying iron, ensure you use it on the lawn evenly, as it will show if you don’t apply it evenly.

Should I Use a Fertiliser That Contains Iron?

Suppose you want to apply iron but also want to apply other nutrients. In that case, we recommend using a well-rounded fertiliser like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser or Exceed Liquid Fertiliser. Both fertilisers contain iron and a balanced ratio of nutrients your lawn needs to stay healthy.

 

If you want to apply fertiliser throughout the cooler months, it is best to use a liquid product like Exceed over granular fertilisers. This is because liquid fertilisers can absorb nutrients more effectively while the grass has entered dormancy compared to granular fertilisers.

Why Should I Use Iron Without Fertiliser?

However, in some circumstances, if you have a specialised lawn care program which already meets your lawns nutrient requirements, additional nutrients from a fertiliser may not be required and separate iron product is best used.

How Can I Make My Lawn Green Instantly?

If you want to give your lawn an instant green-up without applying iron products, why not use a lawn pigment product like ColourGuard Plus! One application of ColourGuard Plus can provide up to 3 months of fantastic colour. It is safe for all lawn types and can be used anytime throughout the year.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Digitaria sanguinalis and Digitaria Cilaris – Summer Grass

Many of you may have heard of Winter grass, but have you heard of Summer grass? Summer grass is an annual weed that appears in the warmer months of the year. It will then go to seed into autumn where it can emerge over several years. There are two varieties of Summer grass that are very similar in appearance. If left untreated, it can grow as high as 30cm and 1m wide thriving in conditions of high temperatures and high humidity.

Description

Summer grass is an annual weed which has soft hairy leaves that grow close to the ground in clusters. The grass roots at the node (joint) and the sheathes of the leaf are usually purple tinged in colour at the base. Because Summer grass spreads by seed, it is extremely important that you act before this happens.

Treatment

Summer grass can be removed by hand, but it will continue to re-emerge in sparse unhealthy lawn areas. Getting your grass to spread and thicken will make it difficult for Summer grass to infiltrate.

Post Emergent Herbicides

An effective way to treat Summer grass is to apply a post-emergent herbicide. The active ingredient common in many of these selective herbicides is DSMA, which is commonly provided as the herbicide for Paspalum.  This active must only be applied via spot treatment to buffalo and kikuyu lawns, so always follow the label instructions and application rates. Something like the David Grays Crabgrass and Clover Killer is ideal.

If you do have a buffalo or kikuyu lawn you can try spot treating for removal. To spot treat summer grass you can use a non-selective herbicide like Roundup and carefully apply it to the Summer Grass. You will need to be careful to not apply it to your lawn as it will harm it also. We recommend using a weed wand or a small paintbrush to help with accuracy.

Pre-Emergent Herbicides

A really effective way of stopping Summer grass from germinating in your lawn again next year is to apply a pre-emergent herbicide like Oxafert. These herbicides act by stopping weeds from germinating from the soil in the first place. In order for them to work effectively, you need to apply them before emergence. For Summer grass, this would mean you would be best applying it in early to mid-spring.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Treating Bindii (Jo-Jo)

Bindii is a low growing weed with a flower at its centre. At maturity, the flower produces a prickly seed pod which is a menace during the warmer months when we are trying to enjoy our lawns. These seed pods contain the prickly seeds that causes the pain to our bare feet. So, it is best to target bindii before it goes to seed in early spring.

Bindii Treatment

Bindii can be managed by hand or by applying a selective broadleaf herbicide like Amgrow Bin-Die or All Purpose Weed Control. Amgrow Bin Die comes in a concentrate form and will need to be mixed up with water in a knapsack or pressure sprayer. All Purpose Weed Control has an easy-to-use clip on hose attachment. By blanket-spraying all affected areas with one of these selective herbicides, the bindii should die off within 7-10 days. These products will help to eradicate Bindii and are safe to use on most varieties of buffalo except the ST varieties. Bin-Die is suitable for use on most other grasses including Sir Walter DNA Certified Buffalo Lawn, Sir Grange Zoysia, TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda, Nullarbor Couch Grass, Eureka Kikuyu, RTF Fescue and Platinum Zoysia. When using herbicides, wait until the products has dried and absorbed before letting your pets back out onto the lawn.

 

A couple of repeat applications may be required to kill off Bindii that continue to emerge.

Bindii grows in the Winter and go to seed in early Spring. 

The best way to keep on top of Bindii is through prevention by regularly fertilising and watering. This will help your lawn become healthier and less susceptible to the infiltration of weeds. Raising your lawn mower height is particularly important in winter and will help you to avoid scalping of your grass. Scalping will also make your lawn more susceptible to weed invasion. When weeds do occur, it is important to act early. That way you can get on top of them before they are more difficult to manage.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Advice on watering lawns can differ substantially depending on who you ask, and more often than not, more water is used than is required.

How do you know if you are watering your new lawn enough?

Providing water to your new lawn is so important to ensure that it gets off to the best possible start. A new lawn that has been correctly watered will have deep roots, consistent colour and health. This will ensure that you create a lawn that is resilient, hardy and drought tolerant. Once established, in times of low to zero rainfall over an extended period, your lawn will survive to thrive again when it receives the moisture that it needs.

Watering New Lawns

Only freshly laid turf needs to be watered a couple of times a day, every day, for the first couple of weeks. Once your lawn sets root into the soil, it is starting to become established.

Important tips for new lawns:

• Water a few times a day, every day for the first couple of weeks
• Water in the mornings and throughout the day as required
• Keep the ‘feet’ of the turf damp at all times to help the roots establish into the soil
• Water the new turf evenly using a sprinkler or irrigation system

The key thing you are trying to achieve is moisture in the soil down to a depth of 150mm. This will ensure your roots establish into soil easily and it provides the moisture it needs as it goes. Keeping the ‘feet’ of your new turf wet is paramount. This will mean checking on your new turf a few times a day to make sure that the soil is still damp and hasn’t completely dried out. Reacting to this and adjusting the frequency of watering to coincide with the current weather conditions will help to give the lawn every possible chance of staying healthy and robust.

A common problem that we see is where new turf simply hasn’t been watered enough. The lawn stunts in growth and doesn’t establish its roots into the soil. From there it is an uphill battle to get it where you need it. Signs that your turf isn’t getting the water it needs include yellowing across the entire roll, curling or wilted leaves, no lateral growth or when lifted there are no visible white roots establishing into the soil.

How do I know if my new turf is getting enough water?

Ask yourself how much water is my lawn getting? If your answer is plenty or a lot, you probably need to delve a little deeper into the specifics. What are you using to water? When are you watering? For how long and at what time of day? Putting a few catch cups around the area when the irrigation is on will give you a good idea of how much water your new turf is receiving and how evenly.

If you notice consistent discolouration across the entire turf roll or slab, it is likely you are not watering enough. If the discolouration is limited to the edges where the turf was cut, this is considered normal. This part of the turf is more likely to dry out quicker and be in more stress from being cut. You can top dress the joins of your new turf to limit this. Ultimately as long as you provide the turf with enough water for it to stay green and hydrated, as the turf begins to grow laterally the dry edges will disappear and look a lot healthier.

Once establishment is happening you can start to back off the watering, depending on the weather and the climate in your region. Signs that your turf is establishing include turf becoming less easily lifted, colour across the turf remains green, vertical leaf growth is consistent and lateral growth is slowly reducing the visibility of the lines between each roll.

Perform spot checks after three weeks to determine if the turf can be lifted. If it can in certain areas and not others, chances are its roots are shallower in those areas; these spots will need to catch up with the assistance of additional deep watering during establishment.

Watering Established Lawns

Water is an important element in your lawn care and maintenance program. With a clever choice of lawn and the correct preparation you can keep watering to a minimum once your lawn is established.

Choose a drought tolerant turf variety

The easiest way to limit the amount you need to water your lawn, is to put in a drought tolerant turf variety in the first place.

TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda has recently received certification and is the first and only turfgrass to ever receive the Smart Approved WaterMark in Australia and across the world. In the US, TifTuf will now automatically be approved for the ‘Water Sense’ program. This means TifTuf is the first turf grass not just in Australia, but throughout the world, to receive recognition to this level of water saving efficiency.

Click here to learn more.

A common question we get asked here at Lawn Solutions Australia is, “how do I know if I am watering my lawn enough?” – The answer to this question can be quite different due to a variety of factors.

Some of these factors include:

• The climate in your area and the season
• Water restrictions
• Access to and cost of water
• Your soil type and its ability to absorb and hold water
• Lawn variety and its drought tolerance
• Environmental factors such as how much sun, shade, wind or heat there is in your garden and your area
• The health of your lawn

Make sure your sprinkler can cover the lawn evenly, regardless of whether it’s a manual shift or automatic sprinkler system. Be sure that no areas hold water and they are all drained well.

When should I water my lawn?

The simple answer is – when your lawn needs it. It is important that you only irrigate when there is not enough rainfall to meet the needs of your lawn. When you do water, do so within the rules outlined by local water restrictions.

If you water your lawn 3 times a week at 8am every single week regardless of the weather or moisture content of the soil, it’s very likely you are overwatering your lawn. This will lead to shallow roots and a lawn that has been taught to expect regular watering, so without it, it will turn its ‘toes’ and begin to struggle during even the shortest of periods without moisture.

Most common lawn types in Australia can survive extended periods of drought. They will lose colour, becoming brown and dry, with little to no leaf growth, but they will generally sit dormant until the next rain or irrigation event.

A common misconception is that a drought tolerant lawn won’t go brown. Drought tolerance relates to a turf varieties ability to recover after extended periods without irrigation. Some grasses will survive in extreme conditions with minimal water, but not look their best, while others will look better for longer, but can die without adequate water.

How do I know if my lawn needs watering? Just look for the tell-tale signs:

• Leaf is wilting or losing colour.
• If you walk across your lawn and leave a footprint behind, then your lawn is likely lacking in water. If it bounces back, your lawn should be well hydrated. This is known as the footprint test.
• During hot weather, if it’s dry and crusty, taking on a brown colour, there’s a good chance it needs water.

The best time to water your lawn is early morning or late in the afternoon/early evening. This is when there is no wind and less chance of water loss due to heat related evaporation. In humid areas, avoid late afternoon or early evening watering as this can increase the chance of fungal diseases. Early morning is best.

By utilising these tips, you can ensure your freshly laid turf or fully established lawn have the ideal amount of moisture and all water consumption is limited to what is required and effective.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Which Lawn Trends Are Worth the Hype?

If you are in the lawn care community, you may have heard of different product types and wondered if they are all there are talked up to be. In this blog, we look at a few popular lawn care trends and assess if they are worth the hype surrounding them.

Plant Growth Regulators (PGR’s)

Plant growth regulators will suppress your lawns vertical growth and increase the lawns lateral growth. This helps the grass to become denser while reducing the number of times you need to mow. This product is used throughout the warmer months when the grass is actively growing to help reduce mowing.

PGRs are only recommended for use in the warmer months and should be avoided in winter. As PGRs are more of a commercial-style product, you will need to calibrate your sprayer for application. Check out our blog here for more information on how to calibrate your sprayer.

If you struggle to keep up with regular mows in the warmer months or want to take your lawn to another level, PGRs are a great option. We recommend using PGR Primo Maxx.

Pre-emergent Herbicides

Pre-emergent herbicides will stop stubborn weeds before they appear in your lawn. They work by creating a barrier at the soil level, stopping any new weed seedlings in their tracks. They are ideal for controlling seasonal weeds like Winter Grass, Summer Grass, Crab Grass, and Creeping Oxalis. However, one thing to note – is that pre-emergents won’t treat weeds that are present in your lawn but will prevent further seasonal weeds from growing.

Pre-emergents are perfect to use if you want to help prevent weed invasions in your lawn. We recommend using pre-emergent Oxafert.

Battery Powered Fertiliser Spreaders

Battery-powered spreaders are another great popular lawn care trend. They will assist in spreading out granular lawn care products across your lawn, ensuring you have even product coverage. The advantage of battery-powered spreaders over manual handheld spreaders is that you don’t need to turn the handle to disperse the product, which may cause hand cramps over a larger area. When using a battery spreader, you will also be able to cover your area quicker than with a manual handheld spreader.

If you have a larger area size, battery spreaders like the Ryobi One+ fertiliser Spreader and the Ozito PXC 18V Fertiliser Spreader are ideal (batteries sold separately). However, a manual handheld spreader will still do an adequate job if you only have a small area.

Liquid Fertilisers

Liquid fertilisers can provide a quick boost of nutrients to your lawn. They do this as the leaves and roots of your grass absorb the fertiliser. However, when using liquid fertilisers you will need to apply them more frequently for results over a longer period.

Liquid fertilisers are ideal for lawns that are already in shape but are looking for a quick boost. For liquid fertilising, we recommend using Exceed Liquid Fertiliser.

If your lawn is in poor shape and you are wanting to help give the lawn a sustained boost over a longer period of time, we recommend using a granular fertiliser, like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser.

Ozito Cylinder Mower

If you are following any lawn care pages, you have probably seen the hype around this mower. The steel cylinder blades can provide a clean and precise cut like the bigger, much more pricey cylinder mowers on the market. The Ozito mowers adjustable cutting height is between 14-38mm, cutting a bit higher than larger cylinder mowers. The Ozito Cylinder Mower is battery-powered. Please note you do need to buy the rechargeable battery separately. This battery is also compatible with many other Ozito home and garden tools.

For its price point, it is a great alternative from the bigger cylinder mowers. It can provide a much cleaner cut than other rotary mowers around the same price point. It is easy to use, manoeuvre, clean, and store. Although the roller attached can be a bit light, we have seen a few people adding a steel roller attachment allowing for better stripes.

 

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

100 Million Metres of Sir Walter Sold

Sir Walter Buffalo today is an iconic ‘Aussie’ brand and is undoubtedly the most successful turf variety in Australian history.

Did you know Sir Walter has reached a sales milestone in the Australian turf industry? Sir Walter has passed the 100 million metres sold mark, an achievement no other buffalo grass or grass has ever achieved! This makes it the greatest selling grass of all time.

To put this into perspective, if you laid this much Sir Walter in a line it would be able to cover the entire circumference of the moon almost 10 times over. Or in terms of Australia, it would be like driving all the way around Australia’s coastline almost 4 times. It’s a truly extraordinary amount of grass.

The Birth of Sir Walter

Brent Redman discovered the great “Sir Walter” in the NSW Hunter Valley in 1996. Brent grew buffalo grasses on his farm, but there were always particular issues that prevented them from achieving high quality. This was until Brent noticed a small area on his farm where an off type was growing. This off type maintained a greener winter colour, had a healthier root system and it was taking over the existing buffalo. Brent realised the potential of this new variety and began propagating the grass to protect the purity and integrity of the variety. From these first few square metres, the superstar that would become known as Sir Walter was born.

The rest is history as they say, with Sir Walter being expanded and produced right across Australia through a network of licensed turf suppliers.

With Greatness Comes Great Responsibility

As a result of the success Sir Walter achieved, deception and substitution by competitors has occurred. Many varieties over the years have claimed to be ‘just like’, ‘same as’ or ‘bred from’ Sir Walter. None of which is true, which is why there needed to be a way to ensure the Sir Walter that consumers were buying was genuine.

To remedy this, Sir Walter supplied by accredited and licensed suppliers is now known as Sir Walter DNA Certified. This extension of the Sir Walter name was developed to provide the assurance to consumers that the Sir Walter they are buying is DNA tested and the genuine product. This turf matches the original breeder Sir Walter plant material bred at Brent Redmans farm developed over 20 years ago.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

Hot and dry weather can really take a toll on even the healthiest lawns and cause them to become thin and patchy. This usually happens over the summer months, as the weather is hot and dry and lawn owners are generally on holidays or too busy to keep up their regular lawn maintenance schedule. It only takes a couple of days of hot, dry weather to affect your lawn.

Usually what you will see is bare patches throughout the lawn or your lawn would’ve started to thin out and change colour. What follows this, is those bare patches bake in the sun and become rock hard making it difficult for water and nutrients to get into the soil. This is commonly known as dry patch and appears regularly in lawns throughout the summer. Thankfully it is treatable and is relatively easy to fix.

First things first, it is always recommended you aerate the affected area of your lawn. Aeration can be done with a garden fork, aerator sandals or a specialised aerator depending on the size of the lawn. This is crucial as it will de-compact your soil and will help nutrients and water penetrate your lawn.

Next, apply a wetting agent like Lawn Soaker to the affected area. Wetting agents come in liquid and granular forms and assist with water absorbing into your soil. This will also allow the soil to hold water in a usable manner for longer. Always remember to irrigate your lawn well after applying the wetting agent.

After this, it is time to stimulate your lawns growth to allow it to self-repair and cover back over. This is best done by applying an NPK fertiliser to the entire lawn and irrigating the lawn well afterwards. Always remember to apply all products at label rates and follow all instructions.

There are steps you can take to reduce the suffering.

• Choose a drought tolerant variety.
• Carry out good soil improvement practices prior to installing.
• Water your lawn correctly, less frequent, deeper soakings to encourage deep roots.
• If possible, give your lawn one deep soaking at the first sign of any heat and drought and then leave it until it starts to wilt, repeating the process as necessary. This will be more frequent in sandy soils.
• Increase the mowing height – slightly longer lawns shade the soil, reducing evaporation and stress.

Always check and abide by the relevant water restrictions in your area as these vary greatly around the country.

How long can your lawn survive without water? Read more here.

Dry patches in your lawn can sometimes be a sign of something else happening with the lawn or soil. Some of the most common reasons for dry patch (dead spots) to occur are:

 

1. Heat exposure (varied area sizes and shapes) – normally a combination of foot traffic, incorrect or insufficient watering practices, lack of water absorption (hydrophobic soil), reflective heat sources, direct heat over exposure.

2. Dog urine burns (up to 20cm areas and varied shapes).

3. Turf pest damage (varied area sizes and shapes).

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

So, your new lawn is now installed, and you’re unsure what to do next? This blog covers a few simple steps on how to care for your new lawn.

Watering For a New Lawn

Ensuring your lawn has enough water, especially for the first few days after installation, is essential to help stop the grass roots from drying out.

For the first few days after receiving your lawn, you will need to irrigate more frequently. This is because the grass roots won’t have had the chance to grow into the soil. The duration and number of times you need to water will depend on a few factors, including temperatures, location, and rainfall.

As a general guide, you want to ensure your grass roots stay damp. If you are experiencing lots of rainfall in your area, you may not need additional irrigation. However, if your temperatures are hotter without rainfall, you may need to irrigate a few times a day.

For more information on watering your lawn, it is best to reach out to your local turf supplier. They will be familiar with the current weather conditions and local area.

Once the roots of your lawn have established into the soil, you can start reducing the number of times you need to irrigate. Once your lawn is fully established, you should only need to irrigate when there is not enough rainfall to meet the needs of your lawn. Some tell-tale signs that your lawn needs water are:

• Leaf is wilting or losing colour.
• If you walk across your lawn and leave a footprint behind, then your lawn is likely lacking in water. If it bounces back, your lawn should be well hydrated. This is known as the footprint test.
• During hot weather, if it’s looking dry.

Mowing Your Lawn For the First Time

Your new lawn should be ready for its first mow once the grass roots grow into the soil profile. To see if it is ready, try lifting the corner of a turf roll from the ground. It is ready to mow if you can’t lift the roll from the ground.

With your first mow, raise the mower’s height so only the top of the leaf blade is removed. Then, slowly bring the height back to your preferred mowing height over the next few mows.

Should I Fertilise My New Lawn

Once the lawn has been down for 6 – 8 weeks, it will be ready for its first fertiliser application. For fertilising a new lawn we recommend using a well-balanced fertiliser, like our Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser. This contains all the nutrients your lawn needs to thrive over the coming months and is safe to use on lawn types.

If you want to apply products during the lawns first few weeks, you can use a soil conditioner like Lawn Kelper, this will help stimulate and strengthen roots and shoots.

Can I Use Herbicides on a New Lawn?

If you notice weeds starting to grow in your new lawn, it is best to hold off from using herbicides till the lawn has fully established. However, most lawn weeds should be able to be removed by hand.

If we haven’t touched on any inquiries you have about caring for your new lawn, reach out to your local turf supplier, or get in contact with the Lawn Solutions Team.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.

As each turf type has a different seed head, it can sometimes be difficult to know what a seed head is and what is a weed. In this blog, we look at what seed heads look like in different grass types, why they grow, and how to help stop them from growing.

They will usually only appear in lawns for a few weeks a year, usually when the temperatures are changing. Although they do have a tough feel underfoot, they won’t cause any damage to your lawn.

Buffalo 

Buffalo seed heads will grow from the runner, also known as stolon. The seed head will be thicker with exposed seeds and will feel tough. They also have a very similar appearance to asparagus. They usually grow at the same height or just above your lawns leaf height.

Most buffalo seeds are sterile. This means that the grass cannot be spread by its seed.

Couch 

Couch seed heads too can be mistaken as weeds. They can be green to purple in colour and will grow on a stem above the grass level. At the top of the stem, there will be a cluster of spikes (usually two to six spikes) that hold the seeds. These spikes are around two to five cm long.

Most turf sold as a solid turf variety like TifTuf Hybrid Bermuda and Nullarbor Couch will produce a sterile seed head that cannot spread.

Kikuyu

Kikuyu’s grows pollen sacs that extend above the grass leaf on white filaments, and are often mistaken as a web. These filaments will grow in a cluster of 2-4 flower spikelets. Kikuyu seeds are produced within the leaf sheath, and are not visible.

Zoysia

Zoysia seed heads will either be white or purple in colour. They will feel ‘tough’ to touch and will come from one stem with small flowers that hold the seeds.

Why has my lawn gone to seed?

Seed heads start to grow for 2 main reasons.

The first being a change in seasons. Seasonal changes can cause a bit of stress on the lawn. In most varieties this will occur once or twice a year.

The second is that your lawn is lacking something. This will usually be water or nutrients

How to help stop seed heads

If your lawn has gone to seed, in most cases the grass will stop producing seeds over the coming weeks. The best way to help stop your lawn from going to seed is through regular mowing, watering, and fertilising.

When mowing, only remove one third of the leaf blade off at once to help reduce plant stress. In the warmer months, you may be required to mow at least once a week depending on your climate and turf variety. Watering your lawn less frequently for longer is best. For fertilising, a slow-release granular fertiliser that has a good ratio of NPK (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium) like Lawn Solutions Premium Fertiliser is ideal to help encourage strong growth for a healthy lawn.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A plant growth regulator (PGR) like Primo Maxx will limit your lawns vertical growth and can help reduce the number of seed heads that your lawn produces. Regular mowing, twice a week, and the use of a PGR at full rates will minimise the seed head from flowering.

pH test

If your lawns seed heads don’t go away after a few weeks after increasing watering, fertilising, regular mowing, and aerating, it is worth doing a soil pH test.

As always, if you have any more questions please don’t hesitate to contact us for free expert advice on 1800ALLTURF (1800255873) or 07 5543 8304.